Day 7 Dunster to Washford: Two Castles and a Walk to Washford

For an OS map of today's walk click here.

Today we had the morning to explore Dunster, and then walked to Washford in the afternoon—a manageable 6 or 7 miles away. First we toured St. George's Church where we had experienced the bell-ringing the night before. It is almost like two separate churches, with a long altar screen that separates the space. This separation actually arose out of a dispute in the Middle Ages between the local monks who used the east end and the villagers who used the west end. The screen itself is amazingly carved oak, which is at least something beautiful that resulted from a petty squabble. Since we were the only ones there except for a woman arranging flowers, we went ahead and sang one verse of "O Come, O Come Emmanuel."

Sara at Dunster Castle

Made the first, missed almost all the rest!

It was still very cold, with strong winds. We walked in the freezing cold to Dunster Castle, and found it a fascinating tour of a medieval building that had been remodeled twice, in the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries. The Luttrell family owned the castle for hundreds of years, only giving it to the National Trust in the mid-twentieth century. Interesting fact of the day: they put seashells under the dance floor to deaden the sound of the dancers' feet. Ken had the opportunity to try his hand at billiards in the billiard room and made his first shot. Another highlight was the library (of course), because it was actually a cosy space in which you could picture yourself reading. There was a James Bond novel on a side table, which also made the library seem lived in and not stuffy.

Dunster High Street

After we finished, we wanted to find a good lunch spot, so the helpful and friendly ticket seller advised us not to go to the castle's tea room which had only outdoor seating (brrrrrrrrr!), but to try Nutcombe Chocolates on the High Street. Hot chocolate sounded like a good idea, and it was excellent. I had milk chocolate, Ken had white. I tried a whortleberry jam sandwich, and liked it. Whortleberries are a local fruit similar to blueberries. We had a good chat with a couple at the next table who were walkers and lived near the Pennines.

Ancient Bat's Castle

Medieval Gallox Bridge

Our walk took us out of Dunster via the medieval Gallox Bridge, and then uphill (you expected something different?) to Bat's Castle, which isn't a castle currently but is instead an ancient (400-100 BC) settlement. All that is left are earth and stone ramparts and a trench, but I love the feeling of walking over a thin crust of nature hiding layers of history. I did dream of being an archaeologist when I was in grade five. . . .

Withycombe Church

After taking in the wonderful, panoramic view from the top of the hill despite the wind, we walked down towards our destination, Washford. On the way we visited one of our favorite churches so far, St. Nicholas in Withycombe. Rather unimpressive outside, the inside of the church was beautiful, with a barrel vault, a nice carved rood screen like that at Dunster, and a particularly good burial effigy of Elizabeth de Meriet with intricate carved stone candlesticks at each end. They also had a kettle and tea and coffee so visitors could have a hot drink. We felt very welcome and comfortable there. We sang three verses of "And Can It Be," since it was John and Charles Wesley's feast day.

20,811 steps, 15.608 km, 573.4 cal
OS getamap measured distance: 7.22 mi (11.62 km)

The De Meriet Effigy, St. Nicholas Church, Withycombe