Day 3 Challacombe to Lynmouth: One of our Best England Walks

Walking to Pinkery Pond

For an OS map of today's walk click here.

Today was one of the best walks of all of our England trips because of the beauty and variety of landscapes we encountered. We started off on the road rising up onto the moor from Challacombe, seeing the lush green steep hillsides of the Devon landscape, dotted with sheep. After a substantial elevation gain we found our path leaving the road, and we headed northwards on the Tarka Trail, climbing onto Exmoor proper, complete with mist and gnarled trees along the fence lines. Sara saw her first barrow ever, and it did feel ancient and eerie with wraiths of mist curling round it. It was strange to think that there was likely still someone buried under the mound. Fortunately, we didn't see any barrow-wights.

Further on, we walked above Pinkery Pond, an interesting feature in the moorland landscape. Beyond, "The Chains" lived up to its reputation in being peaty and boggy, and we had to pick our way carefully through the soft, squelchy mud. We found a dry spot near a fence further on, and sat and enjoyed our packed lunch of cheddar and vegetable sandwiches, oranges, biscuits (cookies), and chocolate, looking across a valley at a large house, possibly the hotel at Simonsbath.

Into the Canyon

Reaching Exe Head, we met a couple doing a loop walk. They told us that the trail ahead was rather indeterminate but gave us some advice for finding it which proved useful. They also warned us about crossing the stream, as she had "come a cropper" while crossing and had fallen in. They were gamely going on with their walk without grumbling about it. Just a little further on we met a friendly man who forewarned us that a group of his students would be coming by shortly, shattering the peace and quiet of the area.

The path then took us down a canyon with dramatic slopes on either side. Arriving at the Hoar Oak, an ancient oak tree that has been replanted a few times, we had some debate as to which of the several oaks in the area it was. But the more pressing matter was how to get across the stream. We looked up and down the bank on our side to see if there was a good spot to cross. We found one that looked manageable, and didn't get wet when we crossed. We got to the other side just in time to see the group of students coming down to the ford, leaping across the stream effortlessly. On the other hand, we had gotten ourselves into a bit of a situation in that while our crossing was manageable, we were on a small island of firm ground surrounded by swampy mud and grass. We managed to pick our way through and rejoin the path, the students long having passed out of sight.

The Valley of the Hoar Oak

As we gradually contoured our way back up onto the moorland of Cheriton Ridge, we saw a large object near a tree. Ken said, "Please tell me that that isn't a living creature." It was. The largest Highland steer we had ever seen, like a huge shaggy haystack. I was slightly amused by the fact that we then in effect began tiptoeing across the moor,  speaking in whispers, trying to avoid the attention of the monster! There were other cattle in the area as well.

One of Several Highland Cattle on the Way to Cheriton Ridge

Soon after we were distracted by the sight of horses, and realized excitedly that we were seeing Exmoor ponies, which although they have come back in the last half-century, are still fairly rare and are considered an endangered species. They are semi-wild, smaller than most horses and have a distinctive, mealy-coloured muzzle. We saw a group of five, and a foal that must have been lying down when we got closer, because we couldn't see it anymore. It was really exciting to see them.

Our First Exmoor Pony!

Exmoor Ponies on Cheriton Ridge

On Cheriton Ridge Looking South towards the Hoar Oak Canyon

Further on, as we made our way on the long walk north along the ridge, we saw some standing stones--a small ancient stone circle--and also admired views of the wide moorland landscape. We then finally came down from the moor, the moorland gently transitioning into pasture. We passed a farm at the small hamlet of Cheriton, and then headed down a steep track edged with brilliant orangey-yellow gorse, soon dropping steeply into a gorgeous valley with a path winding along Hoaroak Water—the creek we had crossed earlier now having turned into a large stream careening its way down the steep combe.

Dropping down to Hoaroak Water

Hoaroak Waterfalls

Following the nicely cared-for path we eventually arrived at picturesque Watersmeet, a famous beauty spot where Hoaroak Water meets the East Lyn River. Although the National Trust tea room there had recently closed as we arrived after 5:00 p.m., we were able to take advantage of some of the other "facilities" there, which was a relief to both of us! After a short rest at one of the many benches provided at the riverside, we decided we should set off since we realized that we were going to be much later than our stated arrival time at our B & B at Lynmouth. We left in such haste that we forgot to take a picture! Fired by this, after Watersmeet Ken got his second wind and despite sore feet we walked swiftly along the beautiful riverside path into Lynmouth, arriving at our B & B around 6:30 p.m. 

P.S.: Ken thinks his map measuring has been a bit off, and instead of a 12.5 mile walk, it was probably 14 or more, at least according to my pedometer.

35,118 steps, 26.338 km, 1020.8 cal
OS getamap measured distance: 12.22 mi (19.66 km)

The East Lyn River between Watersmeet and Lynmouth

[Note from Ken: This was an absolutely fabulous walk which has a little bit of everything—from the lovely farmland hills of North Devon up to ancient moorland barrows to the watery desolation of Pinkery Pond and the Chains, to views of Simonsbath near Exe Head to the steep-sided canyon of the Hoar Oak; and then back onto the moorland ridge again before finally diving down into deep, delightful river valleys—with highland cattle and Exmoor ponies thrown in to boot! I'd love to do it again some day!]