Day 17 Dinton to Salisbury: Grovely Wood and Susan Too!

A Nadder Valley Panorama from the Ox Drove

For an OS map of today's walk click here.

Today we began in rural beauty and ended in the busy yet winsome city of Salisbury, meeting Ken's sister—and kidney donor—Susan, who had flown from Pennsylvania to London today and had arranged to meet us at our B & B in Salisbury. So it was the end of one stage of our walk and the beginning of another. . . .

We set out on our path from Marshwood Farm and had to go through another farm to continue on our path. We got a bit lost and had to knock on the door and ask the owner (who came round the side of the house accompanied by five dogs). We found our way after that, through a rather nettly wood, up a farm track, and then ultimately back up onto the downland ridge we had traveled two days earlier, walking along the track called the Ox Drove—an old road once used for driving livestock to market.

"Grovely, Grovely, Grovely, and all Grovely!"

And soon we came to...Grovely Wood! May 29 is Oak Apple Day (I think oak apples are acorns?), and every May 29 the inhabitants of the village of Great Wishford (in the Wyle Valley just over the ridge) march up the hill to Grovely Wood and thence in procession to Salisbury,  shouting, "Grovely, Grovely, Grovely and all Grovely!" to assert their ancient right to collect firewood from Grovely Wood. We missed the procession by one day, but we had been looking forward to seeing the woods and chanting it for ourselves. The seals had been looking forward to it as well,

Wilton Italianate Church

 so we include a photo of them in front of Grovely Wood. While we walked along (and occasionally inside) only the very edge of the forest, there looked to be ample firewood available in the rather scrubby undergrowth.

Later on as we were walking into Wilton, we heard a species of bird related to the cellphone bird—this one sounded like a car alarm. But of course everyone just ignored it. 

Our first stop in Wilton—the town which gives Wiltshire its name—was to visit the Italianate Church, rather unique since most village or town churches in England are built in the Norman, Gothic, or neo-Gothic architectural styles. The Italianate Church, on the other hand, is resolutely baroque in its feel, with gilding everywhere. I really liked it. Ken, who generally prefers Gothic architecture, also liked it as an interesting contrast to all the Gothic churches we had visited along the way.

Wilton House, South Front

Wilton House North Front Gardens

After a brief stop in the town centre to eat lunch, we toured historic Wilton House, a large country house owned by the Earl of Pembroke. It was noteworthy for the wonderful collection of sculpture and paintings as well as, obviously, the remarkable, ornately decorated staterooms reserved for royal and other eminent visitors (though they did let us in). Particular highlights were the single and double cube rooms, the one measuring 30 x 30 x 30 feet and the other 30 x 30 x 60 feet. The latter has a particularly memorable family portrait. As at Stourhead, the influence of the neoclassical movement in art and architecture was pervasive, with most of the ceiling paintings in the larger rooms depicting classical and mythological subjects. Sara's background in Classics once again came in handy, and the guides in the rooms were excellent as well, answering all our questions with interesting information. 

Palladian Bridge, Wilton Estate

Ken had heard of this, but the guides confirmed that the D-Day invasion was planned at Wilton House, apposite as the anniversary is coming up soon. Moreover, in a display case in the basement we saw a lock of Queen Elizabeth I's hair. I think it's a rather odd thing to have encountered. Overall it was a fascinating look into a very different way of life than ours.

Outside, we particularly admired the north garden with its beautiful statues as well as the grandeur of the estate in general, the south and east fronts of the house being surrounded by large lawns and parkland with walking paths along the river. A beautiful scene.

Wilton House, East Front

Bemerton Church

The Cathedral from the Water Meadows

After some ice cream at the Wilton shop, we continued our walk along two A-roads (with pavements mercifully provided) and then along suburban streets to Bemerton, where after erroneously identifying a locked church as the one where the seventeenth-century poet George Herbert was priest, we found the correct church, which was happily unlocked. It was small but welcoming, and we sang Herbert's setting of the twenty-third psalm to the tune of "Amazing Grace."

We then walked the last couple of miles into Salisbury via the water meadows, getting great views of Salisbury Cathedral with its amazing tower and spire dominating the landscape for miles around. Adjusting to the usual shock of entering a city after travelling many days in the quiet countryside, we darted into the cathedral close and walked across it and out the east side to our very centrally located B & B, Cathedral View. Susan was there waiting for us, having had a nap after her flight. We had a pleasant supper at the Cloisters pub before heading back home. When we went to bed, from our room we could see the spire of the cathedral lit up, with a red light at the top of the spire to warn aircraft. Our B & B isn't called Cathedral View for nothing! We all rested well after our different busy days.

34,328 steps, 25.776 km, 1082.3 cal
OS getamap measured distance: 11.90 mi (19.15 km)