Day 3 Challacombe to Lynmouth: One of our Best England Walks

Walking to Pinkery Pond

For an OS map of today's walk click here.

Today was one of the best walks of all of our England trips because of the beauty and variety of landscapes we encountered. We started off on the road rising up onto the moor from Challacombe, seeing the lush green steep hillsides of the Devon landscape, dotted with sheep. After a substantial elevation gain we found our path leaving the road, and we headed northwards on the Tarka Trail, climbing onto Exmoor proper, complete with mist and gnarled trees along the fence lines. Sara saw her first barrow ever, and it did feel ancient and eerie with wraiths of mist curling round it. It was strange to think that there was likely still someone buried under the mound. Fortunately, we didn't see any barrow-wights.

Further on, we walked above Pinkery Pond, an interesting feature in the moorland landscape. Beyond, "The Chains" lived up to its reputation in being peaty and boggy, and we had to pick our way carefully through the soft, squelchy mud. We found a dry spot near a fence further on, and sat and enjoyed our packed lunch of cheddar and vegetable sandwiches, oranges, biscuits (cookies), and chocolate, looking across a valley at a large house, possibly the hotel at Simonsbath.

Into the Canyon

Reaching Exe Head, we met a couple doing a loop walk. They told us that the trail ahead was rather indeterminate but gave us some advice for finding it which proved useful. They also warned us about crossing the stream, as she had "come a cropper" while crossing and had fallen in. They were gamely going on with their walk without grumbling about it. Just a little further on we met a friendly man who forewarned us that a group of his students would be coming by shortly, shattering the peace and quiet of the area.

The path then took us down a canyon with dramatic slopes on either side. Arriving at the Hoar Oak, an ancient oak tree that has been replanted a few times, we had some debate as to which of the several oaks in the area it was. But the more pressing matter was how to get across the stream. We looked up and down the bank on our side to see if there was a good spot to cross. We found one that looked manageable, and didn't get wet when we crossed. We got to the other side just in time to see the group of students coming down to the ford, leaping across the stream effortlessly. On the other hand, we had gotten ourselves into a bit of a situation in that while our crossing was manageable, we were on a small island of firm ground surrounded by swampy mud and grass. We managed to pick our way through and rejoin the path, the students long having passed out of sight.

The Valley of the Hoar Oak

As we gradually contoured our way back up onto the moorland of Cheriton Ridge, we saw a large object near a tree. Ken said, "Please tell me that that isn't a living creature." It was. The largest Highland steer we had ever seen, like a huge shaggy haystack. I was slightly amused by the fact that we then in effect began tiptoeing across the moor,  speaking in whispers, trying to avoid the attention of the monster! There were other cattle in the area as well.

One of Several Highland Cattle on the Way to Cheriton Ridge

Soon after we were distracted by the sight of horses, and realized excitedly that we were seeing Exmoor ponies, which although they have come back in the last half-century, are still fairly rare and are considered an endangered species. They are semi-wild, smaller than most horses and have a distinctive, mealy-coloured muzzle. We saw a group of five, and a foal that must have been lying down when we got closer, because we couldn't see it anymore. It was really exciting to see them.

Our First Exmoor Pony!

Exmoor Ponies on Cheriton Ridge

On Cheriton Ridge Looking South towards the Hoar Oak Canyon

Further on, as we made our way on the long walk north along the ridge, we saw some standing stones--a small ancient stone circle--and also admired views of the wide moorland landscape. We then finally came down from the moor, the moorland gently transitioning into pasture. We passed a farm at the small hamlet of Cheriton, and then headed down a steep track edged with brilliant orangey-yellow gorse, soon dropping steeply into a gorgeous valley with a path winding along Hoaroak Water—the creek we had crossed earlier now having turned into a large stream careening its way down the steep combe.

Dropping down to Hoaroak Water

Hoaroak Waterfalls

Following the nicely cared-for path we eventually arrived at picturesque Watersmeet, a famous beauty spot where Hoaroak Water meets the East Lyn River. Although the National Trust tea room there had recently closed as we arrived after 5:00 p.m., we were able to take advantage of some of the other "facilities" there, which was a relief to both of us! After a short rest at one of the many benches provided at the riverside, we decided we should set off since we realized that we were going to be much later than our stated arrival time at our B & B at Lynmouth. We left in such haste that we forgot to take a picture! Fired by this, after Watersmeet Ken got his second wind and despite sore feet we walked swiftly along the beautiful riverside path into Lynmouth, arriving at our B & B around 6:30 p.m. 

P.S.: Ken thinks his map measuring has been a bit off, and instead of a 12.5 mile walk, it was probably 14 or more, at least according to my pedometer.

35,118 steps, 26.338 km, 1020.8 cal
OS getamap measured distance: 12.22 mi (19.66 km)

The East Lyn River between Watersmeet and Lynmouth

[Note from Ken: This was an absolutely fabulous walk which has a little bit of everything—from the lovely farmland hills of North Devon up to ancient moorland barrows to the watery desolation of Pinkery Pond and the Chains, to views of Simonsbath near Exe Head to the steep-sided canyon of the Hoar Oak; and then back onto the moorland ridge again before finally diving down into deep, delightful river valleys—with highland cattle and Exmoor ponies thrown in to boot! I'd love to do it again some day!]

Day 2 West Buckland to Challacombe: Fun with Friends and Frustrating Forests

For an OS map of today's walk click here.

Today was special because we were joined by Helen, Amos, Torin and Kieran for the morning part of the walk. Torin, age 11, offered to carry Ken's pack for a ways—we would be happy to have any other volunteers who would like to offer a similar service! The boys also informed us that they had "emergency Pringles," so we all felt well-equipped for the walk. Torin found some good walking sticks along the way, and Kieran found a beetle with a beautiful iridescent blue underside. And then another, and another. He eventually had quite a collection in his hand by the time he set them free! We walked through forest lined with bluebells. It was a peaceful walk, though we did see a cow standing in the river, clearly having gotten out of its pasture. It ran down the stream and up the bank, but was on the wrong side of the fence.  It let out a bawl, and all of the other cattle in the field came over to their side of the fence and stood in a row, looking sympathetically at the stuck cow. I had never seen cow solidarity in action before.

We found a place for lunch just after Newtown Bridge, in the forest. After lunch Torin said, "Since it's only the second day of the walk, I suppose you haven't yet been lonely." But after we said goodbye, Ken and I felt quite down—it having been so good to share time with friends we hadn't seen in years.

We continued through the forest which is owned by the forestry commission, which means trails everywhere that don't have waymarking. I am following the Anglican Book of Common Prayer services for morning and evening prayer, and I hadn't thought in the morning when I prayed "forgive us our trespasses" that it would turn into a literal need. We got lost on the wrong trail and came out at Higher Hall Farm, walking gingerly through the farmyard hoping no one would see us, rather ashamed at resorting to trespass to escape our predicament. (By the way, Ken would like it known that, although lost in the forest, when we emerged he knew *exactly* where we were!)

Exmoor will have to wait...

We then decided to walk on the road to Challacombe rather than our original route, which involved a path through more forest followed by a longish climb onto the moor and then back down into Challacombe. Because of our forest wandering we were late and still had a long way to go unless we altered our route. So the moor will have to wait until tomorrow; we road-walked the four miles north to Challacombe.

After all that road walking, we arrived at Challacombe footsore and thirsty only to find the pub closed. A sweet elderly lady who lived across the road offered to bring us a cup of tea, but as we had water and were only resting awhile we turned down her offer—afterwards we thought we perhaps should have accepted. We then trudged up the hill to Twitchen Farm, our bed and breakfast, Ken still dreaming thirstily of his lost pint of lemonade (not the nightmare of pouring it into his backpack!). Later in the evening he finally got that pint at the pub, and we both had a nice dinner after the crowd of loud stag partyers left. A peaceful walk up the hill through the fields, and we were home in our cosy and tranquil Radworthy room. While I rested Ken took some pictures, the sunset turning everything to gold...

29,254 steps, 21.940 km, 856.7 cal
OS getamap measured distance 10.64 mi (17.13 km)

A Challacombe Sunset from Twitchen Farm

Beautiful Twitchen Farm, Challacombe

Twitchen Farm, Challacombe—Can you spot the man emerging from a bush?

Blessings and Thanks

Unlike our 2008 "Coast to Coast" walk across northern England, we did not pick up a stone at the beach on the West Coast and carry it across to be deposited on the East Coast. Of course, one practical reason for this is that Barnstaple is on a river near but not at the sea. But another more meaningful reason is that we are carrying the blessings of so many people with us. From the blessing of our employer, Trinity Western University (particularly the library and human resources department which recognized how important this was to Ken and were willing to grant him a leave of absence only five months after starting a new full time job), to the blessings of all the friends, family and others who have wished us well, to the blessing that Sara's brother's church (unknowingly) gave us in the process of a church service the Sunday before we left, to the blessings of our own church, our small groups, and especially via our pastor, Phil Wheaton, who prayed for us the morning we left, and finally to the blessing that Rev. Simon May, vicar of Trinity Church, Barnstaple, who didn't know us but was willing to meet with us and pray for us the morning of our first day of walking--all these blessings we carry with us on our journey. We are both so thankful for all these blessings that go on and on and on.

So we will walk on, giving thanks for life, renewed health, and so many blessings, innumerable to count but tangible all the same.

Thanks be to God, and for you all. Celebrating blessings in via...

Day 1 Barnstaple to West Buckland: The First Day

Ken and Simon

For an OS map of today's walk, click here.

We are TIRED! But happy. Today's walk was longer than anticipated.

Setting Out from Herton Farm

 

 We set off from our B & B around 9:00 a.m. after getting our host to take a photo of us. We met with the vicar of Trinity Church, Barnstaple, Simon May, and he sent us off with a prayer of blessing for the walk. We started walking at 10:00 a.m. The weather was great, though the wind was at times cool.

Wild Garlic above Landkey Brook

At the First Tarka Trail Waymark!

Highlights for the day: seeing the beautiful white clusters of flowers of wild garlic and enjoying the scent of it as well. The landscape of rolling hills and big blue sky. The seals putting their paws on the pawprint waymark of the Tarka Trail. Meeting a man who was trying to tame a vine maple and then having a friendly chat about walking. Singing the doxology in West Buckland church after trying to enter two other churches earlier in the day only to find them locked. Having a Devon cream tea on arrival at our B & B.

Funny moment of the day, though not at the time: Sitting outside of a pub and Ken somehow managing to pour a half pint of lemonade into his open backpack, much to his chagrin. (Note to North American readers: lemonade is a clear, carbonated drink like a dry 7UP, only better—in taste, not in a backpack!)

36,272 steps, 27.204km, 1123.6 cal
OS getamap-measured distance: 12.66 miles (20.38 km)

A Typical North Devon Landscape near Gunn

West Buckland Church

Flowers in West Buckland

Route Map of Day 1 (click on map for maximum detail)

Exeter Cathedral: A Photo Essay

A Note to the Reader: 

On our trip we were able to see six cathedrals in total. We visited Exeter on the day before the walk. During the walk we visited, in order: Wells, Salisbury, Winchester, Rochester, and Canterbury (we took rest days at Wells, Salisbury, and Canterbury, which encouraged more photographs!). Each cathedral is lovely in its own right and, for all but Rochester, we took many, many pictures—far too many to feature in our regular walking-day posts. So we've decided to include some photo posts dedicated to these magnificent buildings.

So, first up...

Exeter Cathedral 

Dedicated to St. Peter

Diocese transferred from Crediton, 1050

Original Norman cathedral rebuilt from east end ca. 1275-1375

It was a sunny morning and the cathedral close was beautiful...

The cathedral close, featuring the north side of the nave, with a statue of the Anglican theologian Richard Hooker (1553-1600), born near and educated in Exeter. (As you can see from the far right of the picture, the west end of the cathedral was completely scaffolded so we don't have any pictures of it.)

The northeast (choir) end and north crossing tower (right). These towers are leftovers from an original Norman cathedral, and were integrated into the rebuilt cathedral as transepts—an ingenious reuse of these fine, older structures.

The nave, looking east; with the choir vault—which you can see extending seemingly to infinity beyond the choir screen and organ—forms the longest continuous Gothic vault in the world.

Here is the nave again, this time looking west.

Monument to R.D. Blackmore, author of Lorna Doone

Some whimsical medieval carving—gymnastics!

And finally, the beautiful east window...and below, another shot of Exeter's famous, magnificent vault.

May 17 Exeter to Barnstaple

A Beautiful Morning in Exeter Cathedral Close

We enjoyed our breakfast at Park View B & B and then walked down the hill to visit Exeter Cathedral. We began by sitting in the cathedral close, enjoying the sunshine, the cathedral exterior, and the trees—even though it was slightly incongruous hearing a piano and children's voices coming from a building nearby, singing, "What should we do with a drunken sailor early in the morning?" We didn't try to answer the question.

The pathways outside in the cathedral close had lines of poetry inscribed in the pavement at intervals. Our favorite quotation was "All pathways by his feet are worn, His cross is every tree," by Joseph Plunkett, an author we hadn't encountered before. His dates seemed to suggest that he might have died in the first world war—he certainly did not have a long life.

The cathedral itself was distinctive in its horizontal structure; that is, rather than the usual impression of height and vertically in the interior, the relatively low vault built all in one style and extending all the way to the east end gives a "horizontal" impression—but one that is innately satisfying and beautiful nevertheless. We got there at 9:00 a.m., and no one was there except us and the staff. Ken wanted to sing but was too shy to ask. It is one thing to sing in a small village church and quite another to do it in a major cathedral. Sigh. Unusual fact of the day: there was an astronomical clock that had a door with a round hole at the bottom, cut in the seventeenth century to allow the bishop's cat access to the clock's inner workings. Apparently mice were attracted to the fat used as a lubricant for the clock, and mice running up the ropes of the clock may have given rise to the nursery rhyme "Hickory Dickory Dock, the mouse ran up the clock."

Fifteenth-century Dutch Altarpiece of the Passion (Detail)

The Royal Albert Memorial Museum was our other main event, and it was an interesting mix of art, natural history, and human history. Sara really liked the Victorian dresses, and Ken found the stuffed giraffe (!) interesting. We both liked the modern portraits because there were so many different styles. We both found a fifteenth-century Dutch altar screen amazing for its three-dimensional depiction of the passion of Christ, bringing some of the same characters from panel to panel. Also noteworthy was a video of people describing their experience of living in Exeter during the bombing of World War II. It was moving to see that there had been a service of reconciliation at the cathedral between the German city of Lubeck and the city of Exeter.

In the afternoon we took the "Tarka Line" train to Barnstaple, a 1.5 hour ride which Ken particularly enjoyed. This line is named after the famous story Tarka the Otter by Henry Williamson, a fictional but very "real" account of the life of an otter and his wanderings in these parts of Devon.

Our Cottage at Herton B&B

Quote of the day, while walking up the hill to our B & B in Barnstaple: Ken: "Watch out for the proverbial banana peel." There was one on the road, and we had visions of the walk ending because of slipping on a banana peel.

When we got to our B & B, our host Jan showed us not to the room in the house which we had booked, but to the adjoining seventeenth-century holiday cottage which used to be the living quarters for the farm laborers—a special treat for the night before our first walking day! We enjoyed tea and biscuits in the cosy living room, and then later on went to the local Tesco and pieced together a wonderful dinner which we ate in the cottage. We've had a peaceful evening of reading and writing.

Weather so far: quite cool (the cathedral was freezing), with a few spatters of rain conveniently not when we were outside, for the most part.

Sara's pedometer reading: 13,390 steps, 10.042 km, 358.7 cal.

(Note: I will give the readings as they are recorded, with the caveat that for each 10 km, you need to subtract 1-1.5 km, since my pedometer is not perfectly calibrated.)