Day 21 Kings Somborne to Winchester: Wet Wayfarers

Wayfarers at the Hospital of St. Cross

For an OS map of today's walk click here.

We awoke to an unpleasant surprise. Despite the forecast for nothing but sun for the foreseeable future, it was raining hard. Our host told us that the weather forecast on the morning news, which they had just watched, said mainly sunny everywhere. Ken guessed that we weren't "mainly."

We armed with our raincoats, gaiters, and pack covers and set out in the rain for Winchester. Sue (the host) said,  "Rain before seven, gone by eleven." We definitely had rain through to eleven. We saw several red deer in a field. Susan later said that the deer must come out when people tend not to. We stood under a tree for quite awhile waiting out a particularly heavy shower. We did hear thunder a few times, but it was far away. We were glad that even though it was raining, sometimes heavily, the paths were in fairly good shape since the weather had been so good for several days before.

Statue of King Alfred the Great on Winchester High Street

We ended up doing quite a bit of road walking, which was quite hard on Susan's feet especially; she was developing blisters on a couple of toes. But in that weather it was best simply to get to Winchester by the clearest and quickest way. Nearing the outskirts of Winchester, we passed a huge field full of sheds that looked like binoculars, housing hundreds of pigs. As we passed by, a pig on the other side of the hedge squealed, startling us all. Susan joked that it gave her a burst of adrenaline to power her up the hill.

As we walked through the southern parts of Winchester, the rain cleared and the sun came out by the time we reached the Hospital of St. Cross, a medieval home for pensioners that is still used for the same purpose today. We claimed the "Wayfarer's Dole," another ancient tradition. We received a free morsel of bread and a cup of ale, and the cheerful porter took our photo. The porter joked that Susan should ask for her kidney back because we were making her go on this difficult walk. But she is really enjoying it, despite the pain! The dole heartened us all, and we looked at the church and then walked into Winchester via the water meadows of the River Itchen, which were just as beautiful as we had remembered from 2004. (Literary note: Anthony Trollope based part of his novel The Warden on Winchester and the Hospital of St. Cross.)

Panorama of the Hospital of St Cross Quadrangle

We learned that we couldn't stow our packs at the cathedral, so we went to our B&B and dropped them off there, which was fun as our host was very interesting. Then we had plenty of time late in the afternoon to tour the cathedral and stay for evensong. It was a mixed choir of men and boys, and was quite beautiful.

At the weirs...

...along the River Itchen

Afterwards we wandered out by the weirs, a beautiful stretch of the River Itchen, enjoying the evening sun, and then had a light dinner at the Crown and Anchor on the High Street, which had a really friendly hostess who made us feel at home when we had been uncertain and frustrated about finding a place to eat. Finally, it was back to the B&B to stay up too late watching fun British t.v. shows (like QI) we don't get to watch at home.

35,015 steps, 26.261 km, 1063 cal
OS getamap measured distance: 9.95 mi (16.02 km)
Susan's GPS: 12.3 miles, 18.16 km

Medieval Cheyney Court, Winchester Cathedral Close

Halfway!!!

Somewhere between Salisbury and Winchester, probably at or near King's Somborne, we have reached the halfway point of our walk!

Hurray!

Day 20 Salisbury to Kings Somborne: A Long Day on the Clarendon Way

Fun on the Clarendon Way near Buckholt

For an OS map of today's walk click here.

Today was Susan's first day walking. Today and tomorrow we would follow the Clarendon Way, named after a ruined estate we would pass along the way. We got swiftly out of Salisbury and into a bowl-like valley. Soon afterwards we climbed onto a ridge and then saw the ruins of Clarendon Palace—really very little left, and what was there was overseen by llamas.

We made a pit stop in Pitton, buying food for lunch. We also looked at the church and sang "Amazing Grace" together, which sounded even more beautiful with Susan's voice now added.

Rest Stop near Broughton

We ate lunch sitting on some steps at the foot of a path in Middle Winterslow, enjoying the warm sunshine which has been with us for several days now. We then walked on a Roman road ("course of" according to the map) for some time; it was almost always straight as an arrow—sometimes in the form of a path and most times in the form of a modern lane. Later we entered some woods. Susan fell a bit behind, and joked that it could be like a horror film in which we turn around and suddenly she isn't there. Just after, we heard the ominous sound of a creaking door, which must in reality have been two branches rubbing each other. It creaked again. A little further down the path, there was a crow just sitting on the path. It didn't move as we got closer. It was alive,  but it didn't move as we went by, just sat there. It was rather eerie, so we dubbed it the Hitchcockian Woods.

When we got to Broughton, we sat at a picnic table outside of the Greyhound Pub. It was nicely decorated inside, with wonderful "book" wallpaper. We had lemonade outside (Ken decided not to pour any in his pack today), and while we were sitting there, we saw a greyhound dog from a house on the corner walk into the Greyhound pub. Makes sense. Many pubs allow dogs inside, but not unaccompanied. A minute later a man emerged leading the dog out, using his own belt as a collar and leash, and took him home. Then the man returned to the pub. We enjoyed watching village life passing by. [When planning the trip I had hoped to find a place for us to stay in Broughton, as it is a good 11 miles from Salisbury—plenty of miles for Susan's first day walking. Unfortunately one B & B was full and the other only had room for two people, so we then had an extra three miles of walking to King's Somborne; though at least that shortened the next day's walk to Winchester.—Ken]

Crossing the River Test

Near the end of the walk we got to cross the water meadows of the beautiful river Test, complete with ducks and ducklings. Our path was rocky underfoot after that, and onto a lane first up and then painfully downhill to Kings Somborne. Thankfully, our B & B host Sue greeted us with homemade elderflower cordial, carrot cake, and shortbread, which refreshed us. Though it was hard to walk more after a long day of walking, we struggled to the village centre and the Crown Inn, which served us a good dinner in homey surroundings.

The River Test Looking North

Susan was amazing, going on such a long walk for her first day's walking. It was really nice to have her company to share in the walk!

42,829 steps, 32.121 km, 1326.1 cal
OS getamap measured distance: 15.99 mi (25.73 km)
Susan's GPS: 16.43 miles, 26.45 km

Days 18 & 19: Savouring Salisbury with Susan

Hard to fit the tower in...

We'll combine the events of our two rest days in Salisbury to catch up a bit on the blog.

Castle Mound, Old Sarum

On the morning of June 4th we moved our bags from one nice B & B, Cathedral View, to another right next door, Spire House. It worked out that we couldn't stay the full three nights in Salisbury at either place, so we got to experience the warm hospitality of both. They are both also very centrally-located, just a short walk to the cathedral close.

We toured the cathedral in the morning and early afternoon. Ken did the regular cathedral tour while Susan and I did the tower tour, which meant climbing 332 steps (in stages). We were above the vaulted ceiling at one stage, then on the level of the mechanical clock, then on the level of the bells (which did strike while we were there), ending up at the top of the tower but below the spire. We went outside on two sides of the tower, because nesting on the other two sides were peregrine falcons which couldn't be disturbed. The views were amazing, but I must confess I was a bit nervous about the climb and the heights.

In the afternoon we went to the Salisbury and South Wiltshire Museum. Though we were disappointed that the archaeological section was closed for renovations until later in the summer, the remaining exhibits on Salisbury's social history, covering industry, textiles (including dresses), and pottery were worthwhile. We also looked at a special exhibition of the artist Rex Whistler, and enjoyed it much more than we thought we would. He had a good sense of humor which he demonstrated in some of the pieces he painted to decorate the officers' mess when he was a soldier in World War II.

In the evening we attended a concert in the cathedral by the Tallis Scholars, who sing sacred choral music primarily from the Renaissance. They chose four pieces that are often sung as part of a service, and sang versions from different traditions (Catholic, Anglican, and Orthodox). It was absolutely awe-inspiring. I had huge goosebumps through one piece in particular. Ken and I were somewhat surprised to find that we really liked a modern composer, Arvo Part. We were glad that the concert, part of a larger arts festival in Salisbury, coincided with our visit.

A nice lady checking Stonehenge off her "bucket list" took our picture!

June 5 began with a few errands in central Salisbury. We dropped of our laundry to be washed, mailed home a package of maps and guide books from the first half of our trip to reduce our packs' weight, and also grabbed lunch from a grocery store. We found the right bus stop for the Stonehenge bus and . . . you guessed it, we toured Stonehenge. After that we caught the bus to Old Sarum, a hill 3 miles north of Salisbury which is the site of the oldest settlements and the first cathedral in Salisbury. It was a beautiful sunny day, and we enjoyed walking around the ruined castle precincts.

Dining Room, Mompesson

Then we caught the bus again back to Salisbury to look at Mompesson House, a National Trust property. The house was wonderful: an early eighteenth-century house with lots of nineteenth-century decor for me to enjoy. The docents were also very helpful and informative. The gardens were also lovely. The only disappointment was the cream tea at the tearoom (we wanted Susan to experience a really good cream tea). Other than that we enjoyed Mompesson house very much.

We ended our quite full day with evensong at the cathedral, which is always a fitting conclusion to the day.

June 4: 10,965 steps, 8.223 km, 279.9 cal
June 5: 18,345 steps, 13.758 km, 532.7 cal

Day 17 Dinton to Salisbury: Grovely Wood and Susan Too!

A Nadder Valley Panorama from the Ox Drove

For an OS map of today's walk click here.

Today we began in rural beauty and ended in the busy yet winsome city of Salisbury, meeting Ken's sister—and kidney donor—Susan, who had flown from Pennsylvania to London today and had arranged to meet us at our B & B in Salisbury. So it was the end of one stage of our walk and the beginning of another. . . .

We set out on our path from Marshwood Farm and had to go through another farm to continue on our path. We got a bit lost and had to knock on the door and ask the owner (who came round the side of the house accompanied by five dogs). We found our way after that, through a rather nettly wood, up a farm track, and then ultimately back up onto the downland ridge we had traveled two days earlier, walking along the track called the Ox Drove—an old road once used for driving livestock to market.

"Grovely, Grovely, Grovely, and all Grovely!"

And soon we came to...Grovely Wood! May 29 is Oak Apple Day (I think oak apples are acorns?), and every May 29 the inhabitants of the village of Great Wishford (in the Wyle Valley just over the ridge) march up the hill to Grovely Wood and thence in procession to Salisbury,  shouting, "Grovely, Grovely, Grovely and all Grovely!" to assert their ancient right to collect firewood from Grovely Wood. We missed the procession by one day, but we had been looking forward to seeing the woods and chanting it for ourselves. The seals had been looking forward to it as well,

Wilton Italianate Church

 so we include a photo of them in front of Grovely Wood. While we walked along (and occasionally inside) only the very edge of the forest, there looked to be ample firewood available in the rather scrubby undergrowth.

Later on as we were walking into Wilton, we heard a species of bird related to the cellphone bird—this one sounded like a car alarm. But of course everyone just ignored it. 

Our first stop in Wilton—the town which gives Wiltshire its name—was to visit the Italianate Church, rather unique since most village or town churches in England are built in the Norman, Gothic, or neo-Gothic architectural styles. The Italianate Church, on the other hand, is resolutely baroque in its feel, with gilding everywhere. I really liked it. Ken, who generally prefers Gothic architecture, also liked it as an interesting contrast to all the Gothic churches we had visited along the way.

Wilton House, South Front

Wilton House North Front Gardens

After a brief stop in the town centre to eat lunch, we toured historic Wilton House, a large country house owned by the Earl of Pembroke. It was noteworthy for the wonderful collection of sculpture and paintings as well as, obviously, the remarkable, ornately decorated staterooms reserved for royal and other eminent visitors (though they did let us in). Particular highlights were the single and double cube rooms, the one measuring 30 x 30 x 30 feet and the other 30 x 30 x 60 feet. The latter has a particularly memorable family portrait. As at Stourhead, the influence of the neoclassical movement in art and architecture was pervasive, with most of the ceiling paintings in the larger rooms depicting classical and mythological subjects. Sara's background in Classics once again came in handy, and the guides in the rooms were excellent as well, answering all our questions with interesting information. 

Palladian Bridge, Wilton Estate

Ken had heard of this, but the guides confirmed that the D-Day invasion was planned at Wilton House, apposite as the anniversary is coming up soon. Moreover, in a display case in the basement we saw a lock of Queen Elizabeth I's hair. I think it's a rather odd thing to have encountered. Overall it was a fascinating look into a very different way of life than ours.

Outside, we particularly admired the north garden with its beautiful statues as well as the grandeur of the estate in general, the south and east fronts of the house being surrounded by large lawns and parkland with walking paths along the river. A beautiful scene.

Wilton House, East Front

Bemerton Church

The Cathedral from the Water Meadows

After some ice cream at the Wilton shop, we continued our walk along two A-roads (with pavements mercifully provided) and then along suburban streets to Bemerton, where after erroneously identifying a locked church as the one where the seventeenth-century poet George Herbert was priest, we found the correct church, which was happily unlocked. It was small but welcoming, and we sang Herbert's setting of the twenty-third psalm to the tune of "Amazing Grace."

We then walked the last couple of miles into Salisbury via the water meadows, getting great views of Salisbury Cathedral with its amazing tower and spire dominating the landscape for miles around. Adjusting to the usual shock of entering a city after travelling many days in the quiet countryside, we darted into the cathedral close and walked across it and out the east side to our very centrally located B & B, Cathedral View. Susan was there waiting for us, having had a nap after her flight. We had a pleasant supper at the Cloisters pub before heading back home. When we went to bed, from our room we could see the spire of the cathedral lit up, with a red light at the top of the spire to warn aircraft. Our B & B isn't called Cathedral View for nothing! We all rested well after our different busy days.

34,328 steps, 25.776 km, 1082.3 cal
OS getamap measured distance: 11.90 mi (19.15 km)

Day 16 West Knoyle to Dinton: Best Bluebells and Teffont Tea

Looking Back to West Knoyle

"It's petered out!"

For an OS map of today's walk click here.

After a friendly sendoff from the farm dogs and helpful guidance from our host Francie who showed us the way through her neighbour's farm to the foot of our path, we set off uphill and eastward towards our eventual destination of Dinton. It was a day with some challenging walking early and a simply wonderful experience of the beauty of the English countryside late.

We handled the hill fairly well and then descended to the first of two farm tracks, which usually make good paths. The first farm track was okay, though eventually the plants on either side of the path were so high that they were taller than I (no mean feat, I hear you say as you recollect my towering height). The second farm track was an interesting exercise in walking by faith and not by sight: I blazed the trail (bushwhacked, Ken would say) and could feel that there was a worn path under my feet, though I couldn't see it for all the plants on the path. All the things I was thankful for on the first path—not wet, few nettles, not too long—evaporated with the second. I wanted to use my favorite line from "As Time Goes By," when Lionel and Jean take a field path shortcut to a pub and get lost, and she says something like, "I expect to see Humphrey Bogart come by towing the African Queen." He could have come by . . . .

Hindon High Street

After a short but slightly scary walk on a busy road, we got to Hindon, a lovely large village. We bought lunch and dinner at the shop because we knew that the pubs in Dinton would not be open for dinner on a Sunday night. We had a rest, then went into the church but didn't sing, as there were people curating an art exhibit there. 

Best Bluebells!

After leaving Hindon we again had to walk on the road, but soon escaped to Berwick St. Leonard, formerly a village but now barely more than little cluster of farm buildings. The church there had been deemed redundant (meaning that there weren't enough people to keep it going as a church), but the building is kept open as a place for prayer and occasional services. I read from the pulpit Bible and we sang "Be Thou My Vision" and the Doxology. It was a nice little church.

Later in the walk, the paths markedly improved, with nice views behind and before. At one point were walking through the woods and Ken told me his first thought was, "Why is there a blue tarp in the woods? " The blue tarp turned out to be the best bluebell patch we had seen so far, carpeting the forest floor almost as far as the eye could see. Amazing color that no picture can adequately capture.

"Thumbs Up!

Fovant Regimental Badges

A walk along a road contouring a ridge gave us nice views southward to Fovant Down and its famous regimental badges, first cut into the chalk during WWI. Then there were a few more pleasant trails leading onward—with cute cottages and unique door-knockers on the way—to our next and best highlight: the dual village of Teffont Evias and Teffont Magna.

We took a right turn and arrived at Teffont Evias in mellow afternoon sunshine. It is an extraordinary place, almost a secret valley complete with a clear, flowing stream (the Teff) running along the lane on its way to meet the River Nadder, a number of pretty thatched cottages, a golden-stone church with a tall spire, and a manor House (now turned to flats). We first stopped at Howard's House Hotel for afternoon tea and biscuits. Howard's House is a lovely and expensive country house hotel, but they will do tea for non-residents. We sat in their beautiful garden and just enjoyed the fountain, flowers and birdsong. We were amused by the fact that one bird's song sounded like a cellphone ringing. There's no escaping that sound these days, though fortunately it wasn't followed by a loud conversation of a personal nature; it was, indeed, a bird. The tea was excellent, the best I've had this trip—we had three cups each! Later, Ken fell into conversation with a nice older man named John, who on hearing about our walk said somewhat wistfully that after all the sports he had played earlier in life his long-walking days were over, but wished us "God bless you" when we left. Again, it was one of those pleasant conversations, getting a brief glimpse into another's life, that make a trip truly memorable.

Tea at Howard's House, Teffont Evias

Teffont Evias

We walked down the lovely lane with the channeled river and manor house wall on the left, and entered the church, with its lofty tower and spire, interesting seventeenth century tomb, stained glass, and resonant acoustics—inspired, we sang three hymns. The village itself was beautiful—even the bus stops were thatched! We walked from there up to the equally lovely Teffont Magna, with the same clear stream and more cottages with verdant gardens bursting with colour. Ken went crazy with the camera trying to capture the beauty of the Teffonts, but sometimes there is just a "feeling" you get from a place that just cannot be captured digitally or otherwise. This was one of those times and one of those places. . . .

Jacobean Tomb of Henry Ley and his Sons William and Matthew (Note cute lions!), Teffont Evias Church

Memorial Glass with Teffont Manor Behind, Teffont Evias Church

Beautiful Teffont Magna—Where even the bus shelters are thatched!

Teffont Magna Cottages

Finally, after taking a look at Teffont Magna church, we had just a couple of miles to go, a not-too-long walk uphill and then down to Marshwood Farm, our B & B, getting the usual end-of-the-day tiredness but gaining wonderful views of the downland landscape to the north and the rich, patterned grazing and farming land in the valley immediately below. Our B & B was one of these farms, a large, solid eighteenth-century stone house with high ceilings and spacious rooms. Our kind and funny host took us to our own enormous room looking out on the farm, with the sheep grazing in the late evening sun. A peaceful end to a long but very pleasant day.

35,246 steps, 26.434 km, 1078.4 cal
OS getamap measured distance: 11.99 mi (19.30 km)

Early Evening at Marshwood Farm, Dinton

Marshwood Farm (The Next Morning)