Friday, 7 June 2013

Day 15 Bourton (Stourhead) to West Knoyle: From Spectacular Gardens to the Wiltshire Downs

At Stourhead Garden Gate

For an OS map of today's walk click here.

Our kind host Vivienne gave us a ride to Stourhead in the morning. Since we had already walked from Stourhead to our B & B the night before, we could legitimately accept a ride. This gave us an extra hour to explore Stourhead, which was great as we then had plenty of unrushed time to enjoy a remarkable place.

The gardens at Stourhead are one of those places that make you wish there were better words than "beautiful" to describe what you are seeing. Created in the eighteenth century and further developed in the nineteenth, Stourhead is a landscape garden where you walk on paths around a man-made lake and enjoy the views from different perspectives: an essay in the "picturesque." The weather was perfect: sunny and warm. The rhododendrons were blooming, and at many points on the path we could smell the spicy sweet scent of honeysuckle. As befitting the fashion of that time, most of the structures were neoclassical: a grotto, a pantheon, a "gothick cottage," and a small temple of Apollo. I think I remember it from the newer film version of Pride and Prejudice. Ken had planned a relatively short walk (less than 9 miles) for the rest of the day, so we had ample time to enjoy the views. We had such a peaceful, refreshing time there. I loved it.

Picturesque Stourhead


For those who love rhododendrons, it was paradise...
The Temple of Apollo
























The Pantheon from the Lakeside Path

Sculpture and Light inside the Pantheon, including Hercules in the Centre



Ken Entering the Grotto


"Nymph of the grot these sacred springs I keep..." (Pope)
Neptune, the water god of the grotto...



















The Gothick Cottage



















One More View: the Lake, the Pantheon, and the Bristol Cross (Gothick Cottage partly visible to the right of the Cross)



The Downs Begin
21 miles to Salisbury; 99 to London
After leaving the gardens and provisioning at the Stourhead Farm Shop, not far off we could see the beginnings of what will become the dominant geological feature of the rest of our walk: chalk downland. Today our journey up to and along the spine of the gently rolling downs was full of interest. We saw men flying remote control gliders near the top of the hill. For some time we walked on a historic coach and drove road, noticing several old stone markers from the eighteenth century that gave the distance to Sarum (Salisbury) and London. At the top of the hill there was a bull that had gotten out of its pasture (the other cattle were still inside), but it was so interested in eating the previously out-of-reach grass that it wasn't at all interested in us or the other people who had their dog running off its lead (!). We learned that "pillow mounds" were ancient human-made rabbit warrens to cultivate rabbits. Later, after we dropped down from the ridge towards our destination, West Knoyle, we saw two hares in a field, leaping together and then posing for us in silhouette. We got to see the church in West Knoyle just as they were cleaning up after a flower festival. We then relaxed at Manor Farm, another lovely B & B.

30,463 steps, 22.847 km, 937.2 cal
OS getamap measured distance: 10.35 mi (16.66 km)


Walking the Oxdrove Way

Wednesday, 5 June 2013

Day 14 Nunney to Bourton: A Ruined Castle and a Fine House


At Nunney Castle
For an OS map of today's walk click here.

Having thoroughly enjoyed our time at Penny's Mill (although we forgot to turn the radiator down and so got way too hot during the night), we set out around 10:00 a.m. to look at Nunney Castle in the village. The castle was ruined during the English Civil War, but it is still substantial and sits surrounded by a pretty little moat. We provisioned at the village shop but wished we had taken more water or other drinks for our walk to Stourhead as it was sunny and warm. The walk was not too long at about 8.5 miles, but we encountered some more barely-trodden paths which necessitated a slight detour onto a lane as well as a farm track that was tricky to negotiate given the substantial rain on previous days. Finally, a fairly sizeable hill and four miles of road walking in full sun ensured that were quite thirsty and footsore by the time we reached Stourhead.

Stourhead House, East Front



Upon arrival we toured the manor house at Stourhead, knowing that we would tour the main attraction, the gardens, the next day. The house was packed full of art treasures collected by the Hoare family over the centuries, with a large number of fascinating portraits. I would say what I found most outstanding was a portrait of a wife of one of the family scions that made her look very thoughtful and beautiful from the inside. The library was also good, with a semicircular stained glass window providing a unique architectural feature at one end. Ken also liked the house, though he was very thirsty since he had drunk all his water and was consequently very leg-weary, taking full advantage of the seats provided in most of the rooms. (The docents were very helpful in giving information about the house and the family, by the way.) After touring the house we went to the garden cafe where they sold Pepsi as Coca Cola, which I found interesting. After a drink and a chance to get off his feet awhile, Ken felt much better.
Stourhead House Library

Our walk south from Stourhead to the pub and then our B & B in Bourton meant that we were dipping our toes just into Dorset—but Ken finds Hardy really depressing so that would be it for Dorset on this walk! Rather than being depressing, shortly after leaving Stourhead the walk was more than a bit nettling—literally. We both got some stings on our legs fighting through an overgrown field boundary on a "path" that was obviously almost never used. Things improved after that, with some timely directions provided by a helpful woman who had just arrived at her home as we passed by looking rather confused. It was great to arrive at the White Horse Inn with a nice candlelit table reserved for us by our kind B & B host, Vivienne. I decided to try pork belly, which seems to be a specialty for this area. Well, I can say I tried it, but it wasn't my favorite meal of the trip so far. Ken did enjoy his chicken, chorizo and rice dinner and there were nice vegetables for both of us as well. Most enjoyable of all was sharing Eton Mess for dessert: crushed meringue, cream, and strawberries with ice cream as well! [We later learned that pork is a regional specialty, particularly in Wiltshire, which was less than a mile away. Also, the Eton Mess was absolutely fabulous!!!—Ken] After a short walk to our B & B we ended the day having a nice chat with Vivienne in her conservatory.

33,062 steps, 24.797 km, 1,015 cal
OS getamap measured distance: 12.02 mi (19.34 km)

Monday, 3 June 2013

Day 13 Wells to Nunney: A Variegated Day


Walking Out of Wells via the East Mendip Way
For an OS map of today's walk click here.

Today's walk to Nunney was quite long at around 14 miles, so after the last couple of days of unsettled weather we were a little nervous with the skies looking threatening, but the clouds stayed high and we had no rain. Initially the walking out of Wells was great on the East Mendip Way, with fairly good paths. However, about midway between Wells and Shepton Mallet, and again a few miles from Shepton Mallet, the paths were more challenging—most likely because they were less-travelled, featuring a variety of dangers, toils, and snares (I mean this somewhat jokingly, as today was mostly a good day): instead of a path, knee high grass that was exhausting to wade through; no exit from a field when there should have been one
Viaduct for the Former East Somerset Railway, Shepton Mallet
according to the map; inquisitive, potentially aggressive cattle with the exit stile from that field hidden from view behind bushes and nettles; huge mucky pools blocking all but a thin margin of the path; warnings posted by the Cranmore Archery Association to stick to the path because archery could be in progress; an electric fence line that had to be very carefully unhooked to get through; a wood that had a path that began well but degenerated into multiple deep muddy ruts (we saw three tires in separate spots, but never spotted the fourth); and finally, expecting to finish the day with a walk along an unclassified lane as shown on the map, a lane that had been upgraded into an extremely busy road with traffic whizzing by at 100 km/hr and no sidewalk or even verge to speak of. (After a stressful half hour we eventually escaped southward down a wonderful bridleway that took us most of the rest of the way to Nunney.)

The day had many beauties and enjoyable experiences as well: a huge horse-jumping course; the very kind proprietors of Peppers Cafe in Shepton Mallet; an amazing railway viaduct; great views across the Mendip Hills; the Poachers' Pocket pub in Chellynch; a garden on a hillside that could be enjoyed only by the homeowners and people walking on the path we were on; and channeled streams flowing alongside our way.

Penny's Mill, our B & B, was lovely, and on arrival we had tea and freshly-made biscuits (cookies) that were still warm from the oven. Our host Rosie is a professional cook, and we splurged to enjoy a fantastic home-made dinner of pear salad appetizer, Persian chicken, basmati rice flavored with orange and pomegranate, cheese plate, and raspberry pavlova. We enjoyed sharing the meal with Rosie and her husband Bill (who happens to be an accomplished furniture designer) as well as one of their friends, Peter, who was helping at the Bath and West Show, a huge annual agricultural fair held nearby. It was an excellent end to the day.

42,459 steps, 31.844 km, 1, 294.5 cal
OS getamap measured distance: 15.86 mi (25.52 km) 

Arriving at Penny's Mill


Wells Cathedral: A Photo Essay

A Note to the Reader: 
On our trip we were able to see six cathedrals in total. We visited Exeter on the day before the walk. During the walk we visited, in order: Wells, Salisbury, Winchester, Rochester, and Canterbury (we took rest days at Wells, Salisbury, and Canterbury, which encouraged more photographs!). Each cathedral is lovely in its own right and, for all but Rochester, we took many, many pictures—far too many to feature in our regular walking-day posts. So we've decided to include some photo posts dedicated to these magnificent buildings. 


Wells Cathedral
Dedicated to St. Andrew
Diocese of Bath & Wells founded 909
Built 1186, consecrated 1239; remodeling in 14th (east end) & 15th centuries (west end and towers) 


The amazing west front with its enormous sculpture gallery, home to an impressive collection of medieval and restored sculpture (it originally had places for 340 figures). The only thing that seems to be lacking are "crowns" on the west towers—whether finished with spires or at least corner pinacles. But the overall effect of the giant sculpture-screen is hugely impressive nonetheless.

And on closer inspection, the scupture-work is outstanding (see below):
 




















Something we hadn't seen before at other cathedrals was this unique bridge which spans the street to join the north transept of the cathedral and chapter house (just off left edge of the picture) to Vicar's Close, a medieval street where cathedral clergy lived. A later picture shows the view from inside.




The nave, looking east. The famous "scissor-arches" were added in the 1340s to stabilise the crossing, which was straining under the weight of the central tower—a marvelous bit of medieval engineering.



Here is a closer look at the scissor arches from two vantage points near the crossing, the picture below looking up into the tower crossing's vault—which is late medieval fan vaulting.





The famous stairs to the bridge over the street to Vicar's Close (straight ahead) and the double-arched entrance to the Chapter House (just visible on the right)—the treads worn by centuries' use.


 Here is the entrance to the Chapter House (from inside), with its delicate stone tracework above. It was completed in 1310.


It was rather difficult to get a good picture of the Chapter House interior (our camera's lens isn't "wide" enough), but it is a beautiful structure with its lovely central pillar fanning out like a palm tree to meet the vaults coming from the eight sides (see also below).







Our tour also included a stop in the north transept to see Wells' famous fourteenth-century astronomical clock chime the hour. The face shows the 24 hour time as well as the motion of sun and moon and phases of the latter. At the hour, "Jack Blandifers"(right) chimes the hours while knights (just visible at the top of the clock on the left) have a jousting match—the same unlucky one losing every time!








Our tour guide also showed us some of the whimsy of the medieval masons. Sara's excellent picture shows a man with a toothache (left) and another pulling a thorn out of his foot (right).



On a more serious note, here is an example of a 15th century "cadaver tomb" of a bishop, illustrating the lesson that no matter the finery and lofty position one reaches in this life, the agony of death awaits—surely an antidote to an undue pride in one's wealth and accomplishments!










Here are two pictures of the Choir, where we enjoyed a beautiful evensong service. The choir vault itself was quite extraordinary with its lovely decorative tracery.












Finally, we loved the Lady Chapel at the east end of the cathedral with its forest of slender columns leading upwards to sharp gothic arches and, at the very east end, to its magnificent trio of windows.



We loved our visit to Wells and its cathedral, and hope to visit again!



Day 12 A Rest Day at Wells

Wells Cathedral West Front, with Transept Bridge to Vicar's Close at Far Left

Today was a rest day, and we had a fairly simple agenda: tour Wells' lovely medieval cathedral precincts. We walked to the cathedral around 9:30 a.m. and took a 10:00 tour with a guide. It was us and two other people. It was good to have a guide who could point out things you might not notice, and tell stories. The cathedral itself was beautiful, particularly the stone carvings on the columns, which were creative and sometimes fanciful, like one of a man with a toothache or a boy pulling a thorn out of his foot. The scissor arches, built at the central crossing to support the tower, were amazing to see up close.

Vicar's Close, A Complete Medieval Street
After a brief walk up Vicar's Close, a complete medieval street which houses the cathedral choristers and other staff, our afternoon visit was to the Bishop's Palace, which felt a bit chaotic with sound checks in the chapel, large tour groups, and children running around--though it was neat to see how "family friendly" they had made the place. The highlights for us were the gardens, the display case that had stories about "coronation blunders" (the bishop of Bath and Wells stands next to the monarch at coronation ceremonies) and an animated feature for children about bishops past and present—we found it fascinating. We want to find out more about Bishop Thomas Ken (and not just because of his name): he sounds revolutionary in his care for the poor and his defiance of politics with which he didn't agree.
Southeast View of Cathedral from Bishop's Palace Garden

We went back to the cathedral for the Evensong service, which was moving and uplifting. It was a visiting choir, and they interpreted the words and music wonderfully. I was teary during the psalm because the music expressed the troubled heart of the psalmist so well. For Ken, his moment was hearing all of the choir's voices come together to sing Gloria on one triumphant note in the Nunc Dimittis. The music was joyous. We're not huge fans of ultra-modern music, and the only part of the service that had it was the organ postlude. The virtuosity of the organist was amazing, but the piece he was playing seemed to modulate from 1980s digital robot sounds to classic horror film organ to Mr. Bean at the amusement park! It certainly wasn't boring.

Croquet on the Courtyard Green, Bishop's Palace
When it ceased we could hear more clearly the heavy rain on the cathedral roof, which had actually started partway through the service. It was so cold and wet as we ducked through the rain to our B & B that we just stayed in for dinner, since we always try to have enough snacks on hand for that type of situation. (We were glad that our B & B is only a short ways east of the cathedral!)

In the Bishop's Palace Garden
In sum: Wells, especially the cathedral, was lovely, and we were very glad that we had made the decision to add it to our itinerary even though to get there we had to detour a bit to the north of our general line across the country. [We'd love to come back some time to visit over a couple of days, and perhaps see some of the caves and gorges in the Mendip Hills immediately to the north.—Ken]

8,988 steps, 6.741 km, 213.2 cal




With Apologies to Matt Redman (Ken's Post)


The sun comes up, it's a new day dawning
It's time to lace my boots again
Whatever my path and whatever lies before me
I'll sing your praises till the evening comes...

Bless the Lord, O my soul
Oh my soul
Worship his holy name
Sing like never before
Oh my soul
I'll worship your holy name